Chinchilla Care Guide
More info coming soon (most of this info I got from http://www.hendryxchinchillas.com/chinchilla-information/care-guidelines/ because I agreed with most every she said and she already summarized it)
Housing
Temperature: Chinchillas must be kept in a room that stays under 75 degrees and they require air conditioning in the summer!!! If they get overheated they can get heat stroke and die. I like to keep a marble tile in the cage so they have somewhere to sit that is a little cooler. Also its a good idea to have a couple tiles in the fridge just in case they get a little overheated it will help them cool down. Pay attention to their ears, if they are red it means that the chin is overheated and you should put them in a cooler area and give them a cold tile to sit on. Chins should be housed away from any drafts and not be placed directly in the air flow from the AC or fans.
Bedding: Kiln dried pine or aspen bedding should be used in your chinchilla's cage. If the cage pan is plastic, I recommend either replacing it with a metal pan or covering all plastic with anti-pill fleece. Chinchillas will chew almost everything and plastic is very dangerous if ingested. The only safe fabric to use is the anti-pill fleece just because most chins won't chew it much. If your chin does chew fleece a lot then it would be best to remove it and not use any fabric.
Water bottle and Food bowl : Again chins chew everything so its definitely best to avoid anything that is plastic. I recommend the glass water bottles so they can't chew them. Food should be offered in a heavy ceramic bowl or attached metal cup so that they can't dump the food.
Cage: Chinchillas love to run and jump so the bigger the cage the better especially height-wise. The best cage would be a wire cage with no plastic. Any plastic should be covered with anti-pill fleece. Wooden shelves should be offered and if the cage is especially tall, shelves and hammocks should be placed strategically in case of a fall. If the cage comes with wire ramps, remove them. They do not need them and only pose a danger because a foot can easily get stuck. Some of the best cages for pet chins would be the ferret nation or critter nation cages. They come with plastic pans so I would replace those with metal ones which can be bought at Bass Equipment. Really nice cages can also be bought at http://www.qualitycage.com.
Bedding: Kiln dried pine or aspen bedding should be used in your chinchilla's cage. If the cage pan is plastic, I recommend either replacing it with a metal pan or covering all plastic with anti-pill fleece. Chinchillas will chew almost everything and plastic is very dangerous if ingested. The only safe fabric to use is the anti-pill fleece just because most chins won't chew it much. If your chin does chew fleece a lot then it would be best to remove it and not use any fabric.
Water bottle and Food bowl : Again chins chew everything so its definitely best to avoid anything that is plastic. I recommend the glass water bottles so they can't chew them. Food should be offered in a heavy ceramic bowl or attached metal cup so that they can't dump the food.
Cage: Chinchillas love to run and jump so the bigger the cage the better especially height-wise. The best cage would be a wire cage with no plastic. Any plastic should be covered with anti-pill fleece. Wooden shelves should be offered and if the cage is especially tall, shelves and hammocks should be placed strategically in case of a fall. If the cage comes with wire ramps, remove them. They do not need them and only pose a danger because a foot can easily get stuck. Some of the best cages for pet chins would be the ferret nation or critter nation cages. They come with plastic pans so I would replace those with metal ones which can be bought at Bass Equipment. Really nice cages can also be bought at http://www.qualitycage.com.
Feed
Pellets: I currently feed my chins Manna Pro Sho rabbit food and your baby will be sent home with a baggie of these pellets. This feed can be bought at most feed stores but since it only comes in 50 lb bags for pet owners that amount would go stale before you could use it all. I can sell Manna Pro Sho by the lb if you would like to buy it in smaller amounts. Most pet stores carry acceptable chinchilla feed including Mazuri, Tradition and Oxbow. Avoid the commonly available Kaytee pellets and avoid any feed that contains 'treats' such seeds, nuts or dried fruit.
Pellets should be free-fed; that is, you should not restrict the amount your chinchilla eats. They will not overeat. Switching brands should be a gradual process that takes about a month to avoid soft droppings.
Hay: Chins need hay to keep their teeth and digestive systems healthy. I generally feed a loose timothy hay. Alfalfa should be given sparingly to adults since it is pretty rich. Various other hays that can be given to your chinchilla include: oat hay, brome hay, botanical hay, orchard grass, and meadow hay. Hay can be feed in either loose or pressed cube form and most pet stores carry some variety.
Water: All water offered to your chinchilla should be filtered. Their systems are very sensitive to the microorganisms found in tap water and tap water should never be given to a chinchilla. The water in your chinchilla's cage should be fresh and should be changed daily to prevent bacteria build-up. The water bottle should be scrubbed clean at least once a week.
Treats: First, chinchillas under 6 months should not have treats on any regularly basis! Once they are full grown, you can give them at most 1 treat once a day. Many people want to buy their chinchilla every treat and chew toy available at the pet store. Word to the wise: only buy chew toys. NO treats. The treats that pet stores sell (even the ones marketed for chinchillas) are generally not very good for chinchillas. Do not give your chinchilla fresh fruits and veggies--these are very high in sugar, and can also cause diabetes and soft droppings .
Chins really like dried fruits like raisins but again they are very high in sugar so only offer them at most once a week. Dried fruits are useful tool in bonding with a shy chin!
Safe treats include plain cheerios, shredded wheat, rosehips and chin-safe herbs(please research which to give or give me an email). Serving size is either one piece or a pinch of the herbs.
Wood/Toys: Chinchillas really love to chew and they especially love their toys!!! Safe prepared wood sticks, pumice rock, hanging chew toys which can be bought at various online vendors (check my link page for vendors I have used). Make sure any wood used in toys or in the cage is safe for chins and has been properly prepared.
Pellets should be free-fed; that is, you should not restrict the amount your chinchilla eats. They will not overeat. Switching brands should be a gradual process that takes about a month to avoid soft droppings.
Hay: Chins need hay to keep their teeth and digestive systems healthy. I generally feed a loose timothy hay. Alfalfa should be given sparingly to adults since it is pretty rich. Various other hays that can be given to your chinchilla include: oat hay, brome hay, botanical hay, orchard grass, and meadow hay. Hay can be feed in either loose or pressed cube form and most pet stores carry some variety.
Water: All water offered to your chinchilla should be filtered. Their systems are very sensitive to the microorganisms found in tap water and tap water should never be given to a chinchilla. The water in your chinchilla's cage should be fresh and should be changed daily to prevent bacteria build-up. The water bottle should be scrubbed clean at least once a week.
Treats: First, chinchillas under 6 months should not have treats on any regularly basis! Once they are full grown, you can give them at most 1 treat once a day. Many people want to buy their chinchilla every treat and chew toy available at the pet store. Word to the wise: only buy chew toys. NO treats. The treats that pet stores sell (even the ones marketed for chinchillas) are generally not very good for chinchillas. Do not give your chinchilla fresh fruits and veggies--these are very high in sugar, and can also cause diabetes and soft droppings .
Chins really like dried fruits like raisins but again they are very high in sugar so only offer them at most once a week. Dried fruits are useful tool in bonding with a shy chin!
Safe treats include plain cheerios, shredded wheat, rosehips and chin-safe herbs(please research which to give or give me an email). Serving size is either one piece or a pinch of the herbs.
Wood/Toys: Chinchillas really love to chew and they especially love their toys!!! Safe prepared wood sticks, pumice rock, hanging chew toys which can be bought at various online vendors (check my link page for vendors I have used). Make sure any wood used in toys or in the cage is safe for chins and has been properly prepared.
Care & Health
Dust: Chinchillas need weekly/bi-weekly dust baths. If chinchillas do not get dust baths, their fur gets matted and greasy. Never bath a chinchilla in water! Also do not buy the chinchilla bath sand. Most pets stores carry some brand of chin dust but it is of lower quality. I use the high quality Blue Cloud dust.
Exercise: Chinchillas, being the hyper animals that they are, require exercise. A good place for a chinchilla to get some exercise is to let the chinchilla out in a closed bathroom or other small room with a door. I suggest covering the baseboards and lower walls with cardboard to discourage chewing of the baseboards. Keep in mind though, that the chinchilla should be supervised the whole time it is getting its exercise. Also, if letting a chinchilla hop around in a bathroom, be sure to put the toilet seat down, as getting chinchillas wet can cause them health problems (if they were to jump in the toilet). A chinchilla could easily drown in an open toilet, so please remember to keep that toilet seat down.
As an alternative to exercise outside of the cage, some people buy wheels for their chinchillas to run on. The wheels found at Petco/Petsmart are not good; these are plastic and will be chewed/destroyed in no time. They are too small and can cause damage to the chinchilla’s spine. The wheel that I recommend for chinchillas is the 15" Chin Spin which can be found at http://www.qualitycage.com. It is not cheap in price but nor is it cheap in quality so in the long run it is well worth the cost. This wheel attaches directly to the chinchilla's cage. Another word about exercise: do not buy the clear plastic balls that Petco/Petsmart sells for your chinchilla to run around in. Chinchillas can overheat and die in those balls in a very short period of time. Also, even the biggest ball is too small for a chinchilla, and can cause a bend in their spine. In a short time, you will find that the chin is running in its own urine and feces so a bad buy all around. The Chin Spin wheel is much more practical and does not hurt the chinchilla in any way.
Chewing: Chinchillas chew everything. If they are let run around the house, chinchillas will chew electrical cords. They can get electrocuted and die from this.
They do need appropriate things to chew to wear down their teeth. Safe wood, pumice stone and hay all help to keep their teeth in check
Health:
Chinchillas should have yellow-orange teeth. If your chinchilla is young, it may not yet have this tooth coloration yet, but an adult chinchilla (over 8 months) should have
this coloration. If the teeth are white or a very light yellow after the chin is 8 months old, the chinchilla is lacking in calcium. Part of a cuttlebone (found in the bird section of a pet store) will remedy this problem.
Chinchillas are generally healthy animals, but they can get sick. Signs of illness
include diarrhea, soft stools, constipation (small hard compact droppings), seizures, weakness, lethargy or inactivity, trouble breathing, wheezing, loss of appetite or weight, a change in eating habits, a change in personality, drooling, pawing at the mouth, watery eyes/runny nose, or leaning the head to one side constantly. Please take your chinchilla to a qualified exotics vet if you notice any of these symptoms and they persist for more than a week. Do not try to treat your chinchilla yourself.
The only thing which I ever suggest trying to treat yourself (before going to an exotics vet) is soft droppings. If your chinchilla has outright diarrhea, then please take it to a vet, but soft droppings can be attempted to be treated at home. The moment you notice soft droppings, give your chinchilla some shredded wheat (not the frosted ones). You can also give your chinchilla burnt toast (burnt so that it is black). If you have access to activated charcoal (found at health food stores), this can take the place of the burnt toast. Try sprinkling high count acidophilus on the pellets (or give Benebac). If, after a day or two, the chinchilla still has soft droppings, try taking out the chinchilla’s pellets entirely and just feed the chinchilla hay. This will not hurt the chinchilla in the long run, but if the chinchilla still has soft droppings after a few hay-only days, then please take the chinchilla to an exotics vet as stasis can develop quite quickly and lead to death.
Exercise: Chinchillas, being the hyper animals that they are, require exercise. A good place for a chinchilla to get some exercise is to let the chinchilla out in a closed bathroom or other small room with a door. I suggest covering the baseboards and lower walls with cardboard to discourage chewing of the baseboards. Keep in mind though, that the chinchilla should be supervised the whole time it is getting its exercise. Also, if letting a chinchilla hop around in a bathroom, be sure to put the toilet seat down, as getting chinchillas wet can cause them health problems (if they were to jump in the toilet). A chinchilla could easily drown in an open toilet, so please remember to keep that toilet seat down.
As an alternative to exercise outside of the cage, some people buy wheels for their chinchillas to run on. The wheels found at Petco/Petsmart are not good; these are plastic and will be chewed/destroyed in no time. They are too small and can cause damage to the chinchilla’s spine. The wheel that I recommend for chinchillas is the 15" Chin Spin which can be found at http://www.qualitycage.com. It is not cheap in price but nor is it cheap in quality so in the long run it is well worth the cost. This wheel attaches directly to the chinchilla's cage. Another word about exercise: do not buy the clear plastic balls that Petco/Petsmart sells for your chinchilla to run around in. Chinchillas can overheat and die in those balls in a very short period of time. Also, even the biggest ball is too small for a chinchilla, and can cause a bend in their spine. In a short time, you will find that the chin is running in its own urine and feces so a bad buy all around. The Chin Spin wheel is much more practical and does not hurt the chinchilla in any way.
Chewing: Chinchillas chew everything. If they are let run around the house, chinchillas will chew electrical cords. They can get electrocuted and die from this.
They do need appropriate things to chew to wear down their teeth. Safe wood, pumice stone and hay all help to keep their teeth in check
Health:
Chinchillas should have yellow-orange teeth. If your chinchilla is young, it may not yet have this tooth coloration yet, but an adult chinchilla (over 8 months) should have
this coloration. If the teeth are white or a very light yellow after the chin is 8 months old, the chinchilla is lacking in calcium. Part of a cuttlebone (found in the bird section of a pet store) will remedy this problem.
Chinchillas are generally healthy animals, but they can get sick. Signs of illness
include diarrhea, soft stools, constipation (small hard compact droppings), seizures, weakness, lethargy or inactivity, trouble breathing, wheezing, loss of appetite or weight, a change in eating habits, a change in personality, drooling, pawing at the mouth, watery eyes/runny nose, or leaning the head to one side constantly. Please take your chinchilla to a qualified exotics vet if you notice any of these symptoms and they persist for more than a week. Do not try to treat your chinchilla yourself.
The only thing which I ever suggest trying to treat yourself (before going to an exotics vet) is soft droppings. If your chinchilla has outright diarrhea, then please take it to a vet, but soft droppings can be attempted to be treated at home. The moment you notice soft droppings, give your chinchilla some shredded wheat (not the frosted ones). You can also give your chinchilla burnt toast (burnt so that it is black). If you have access to activated charcoal (found at health food stores), this can take the place of the burnt toast. Try sprinkling high count acidophilus on the pellets (or give Benebac). If, after a day or two, the chinchilla still has soft droppings, try taking out the chinchilla’s pellets entirely and just feed the chinchilla hay. This will not hurt the chinchilla in the long run, but if the chinchilla still has soft droppings after a few hay-only days, then please take the chinchilla to an exotics vet as stasis can develop quite quickly and lead to death.